Arguably the beekeeper's most important tool, smokers are often neglected, abused and mis-used. Points covered here are:

• Buying
• Lighting
• Fuels
• Cleaning & maintenance

A good smoker should last for years, so when buying, it is worth spending a little extra to get the right one for you. Perhaps the most important features to consider are:

• Comfort and style
  Does it feel right in your hand? Some smokers have a very uncomfortable rim around the bellows.
  What type of nozzle does it have? The 'Etna' type has a rounded cap with the nozzle that is more towards the horizontal than the more traditional type - I find this more awkward to use.
  Does it have a hook? I find the hooks on the front of the smoker very awkward, because the nozzle of the smoker is then over the box that it hangs on - a simple coat hook screwed upside-down on the back of the bellows is much better.
• Size
  Buy a big one! Larger smokers are not very much more expensive and are easier to light and keep going; they can also deliver a better volume of cooler smoke.
• Quality of construction
  Does everything fit together well?
  Are there any sharp edges?
  Is there a plastic knob or a metal loop to open the lid - and is it robust enough to withstand some force if the lid gets stuck?
  Do you want copper or stainless steel? Copper looks good, but is much softer; it will get dented and the seams can come apart.
• Safety
  Is the bellows securely attached, ideally with wingnuts and spring washers?
  Is there a cage around the body so that you can hold it between your knees without burning your boilersuit (or yourself)?

Getting a smoker going is not difficult if you follow these tips:

• Ensure that the smoker is clean, with a clear airway.
• Have a good supply of dry fuel.
• Start with something in the bottom of the smoker that will burn easily, a small ball of crumpled newspaper or some dry grass - but do not put in too much.
• Work the bellows gently to get the fire going - that means flames!
• When well alight, add a little more fuel. If you used newspaper then you can start to add your chosen main fuel, if grass, then you will need to add more grass quickly as it burns away very fast at first.
• Keep adding fuel little by little and working the bellows to get a good fire in the base of the smoker; if using grass this may require a considerable quantity as there is so little residue. Do not put in too much fuel at a time as this will block the airflow.
• When there is a good fire established, fill the smoker with fuel, press down lightly (packing it too tight will block the airflow) and - only now - shut the cap.
• Keep the smoker going by keeping it upright (so often beekeepers hold the smoker almost horizontally between their knees).

This is one of those topics that beekeepers love to argue about and many column inches have been written extolling the virtues of various fuels. My own preferences are based on experience of the fuels and their ready availability at nil cost.

• Grass
  Plentiful in orchards when mown - can be gathered by the sackful
  Must be dry
  Easy to light
  Stays lit well provided that the smoker is kept topped up
  Burns fairly quickly unless packed down (but not too tightly)
  Produces large volume of dense smoke
  Reasonably pleasant smell
  Produces fine ash that may be blown out of the nozzle (this can be prevented by adding more fuel which acts as a filter)
• Punk wood
  The stumps of dead elms are a good source in this area
  Choose the heart wood which is rather like balsa
  Can easily be broken into suitable size pieces by hand
  Can be lit with a match and will keep smouldering
  Pleasant smell
  Can be combines with other fuels, e.g. grass, which give denser smoke
• Sacking
  Contrary to popular belief, this does not need to be rotted - but it is important to ensure that it has not been treated with pesticide or fungicide.
  If you can find a coffee shop that roasts their own beans then the sacks used for the raw coffee beans are excellent.
  Roll the sacks up and cut the rolls to fit your smoker with a carving knife.
• Dried leaves
  There are nearly always some dry leaves under hedges and trees around the apiary.
  Holly leaves give a particularly pleasant smoke.
• Newspaper
  Although this will not last very long, for those very quick jobs where it is not worth firing up the smoker properly, some tightly crumpled newspaper will give a few minutes smoke.
• ...and one not to use - Corrugated Cardboard!
  Although this usually burns well (unless treated to make it fireproof), the smoke is very acrid and very unpleasant if you get it in your eyes. It also produces large amounts of tar in the smoker.

Last but not least, cleaning and maintenance is vital because unless the smoker is in good order it will be difficult to light and keep going, regardless of the fuel used. A smoker that does not produce smoke when needed is not only a constant annoyance when working, but may also lead to colonies getting out of control. This can create a dangerous situation both for the beekeeper and, more importantly, any innocent passers-by.

A dirty smoker has much in common with a dirty cooker - both will have partially burnt, carbon-based, baked-on deposits. The smoker will also have unburned tar, particularly in the nozzle, with the amount dependent on the fuel used.

As with a cooker, there are two ways to clean a smoker: you can either try to restore it to a nice, shiny showroom condition (which will disappear as soon as it is used again) or you can clean it so that it is restored to good working order. My preference is for the latter!

The quickest way that I know to clean a smoker is with a blowlamp. There is no need to remove the bellows if you are careful; in fact, leaving the bellows on will help with the cleaning process, as air is needed to help burn off deposits inside the smoker. Work outdoors, for safety, and wear thick, non-inflammable gloves.

Start by opening the smoker and placing it on a firm surface. If the cap has a plastic knob to open the smoker, either remove it, or be careful not burn it with the blowlamp. Blowlamp the cap and nozzle from the inside until all the deposits have charred and can easily be chipped away using a screwdriver. Now do the same for the body of the smoker, working the bellows gently to help burn the deposits and prevent the blowlamp from going out.

The next job is to ensure that there is a clear pathway for the air supply. Remove the fire-grate and, with a suitable piece of thick wire, ensure that all the holes in it are clear. Do the same for the hole through the body to the bellows and the air-hole in the bellows itself. If you have difficulty getting to these holes then you can remove the bellows, but it is quite easy to bend a piece of wire coat hanger into a suitable tool.

Have a good look at the condition of the bellows, as any holes here will severely reduce the air supply. It is difficult to patch bellows - the constant movement usually loosens the patch sooner or later - and it is best to replace the material completely. A piece of a car inner tube works very well and can usually be obtained free from any tyre fitters. Use the old piece of material as a template.

Finally, make sure that the body is securely attached to the bellows.