Colonies are moved for a number of reasons, for example:

• They may simply be in an inconvenient position
• To pollinate a crop
• To a better site
• To take advantage of a crop, either locally or at a considerable distance

Local moves are usually fairly straightforward and any problems can often be overcome fairly easily, but as the distance increases so do the risks.

Good planning is essential. The following points will not apply to every move, but are intended to serve as a comprehensive checklist.

1. It is a generally accepted rule that colonies may be moved either:
   Up to three feet or
   Over three miles.
   Between those distances bees that have previously flown and have learnt the surrounding landscape will return to the old site. The rule may be broken in winter if the bees have not been able to fly for two or three weeks, but winter moves must be done very carefully so that the cluster is not disturbed; this type of move is fine for re-siting a colony within a garden for example, but moves using a vehicle are best avoided.
2. Move when colonies are they are small if possible - spring is a good time.
3. Hoffman brood frames are best as they will not swing.
4. Check your vehicle and trailer before starting work - especially the spare wheels for both.
5. Short moves are probably best made in the early morning as you will then be working in daylight to set out the hives in their new location - but do be sure to set the alarm as bees start flying very early on a spring or summer morning.
6. Long distance moves, e.g. to the heather, are probably best made after dark on a cool evening as soon as the bees have stopped flying as you will then have all night to complete the job. The bees will be kept much cooler, will not attempt to fly to the light and any that do escape will remain on the outside of the hive. There is nothing worse than starting a move in the early morning, hitting a vehicle or trailer problem and then having hives exposed to the full heat of the day.
7. Take a good tarpaulin to protect the hives from heavy rain if on a trailer - small amounts of light rain will not matter.
8. Remember torches (with batteries!) and/or lights, toolkit, string, rope, spare wheel for trailer and jacks suitable for both the vehicle and the trailer. Be sure that you have appropriate tools to cope with tight wheelnuts.
9. If moving a long distance take food, drink, waterproof clothing and a complete change of clothes and a towel - I once got soaked on the Yorkshire moors and it was 160 long miles back home!
10. Plan in advance what you will do if something goes wrong - try to imagine worst case scenarios, e.g. stuck in mud, punctures, breakdown etc. Pessimism is a virtue in this case.
11. Organise stands at the other end before moving (take temporary ones for migratory moves, e.g. lengths of wood).
12. Remember your beekeeping kit and keep at least your veil in the cab with you - not with the bees!
13. Make or borrow a good hive carrier - it will save your back.
14. For migratory beekeeping, temporary roofs can be made from plastic sacks held in place with a very large and strong rubber band (you can make these from an inner tube), or from a flat sheet of waterproof plywood. This saves transporting the roofs.

15. Remove any honey crop before moving if possible.
16. Make sure that the colonies have adequate ventilation by replacing the roof with a mesh travelling screen.
17. It is a good idea for the mesh to rest on the tops of the frames; this confines the bees to the spaces between the combs - rather like barriers at football matches (in the days of terraces). If there is a space then they tend to crowd into the area just beneath the screen and again may block the ventilation, although this is unlikely at night.
18. If there is any vegetation by the entrances to your hives, move them back a couple of inches either earlier on the day of the move or during the preceding day or two (perhaps when strapping): this will make it easier to close the entrance and will prevent pushing the vegetation in with the foam - and the foam coming back out when you lift the hive, in the dark.
19. Do not use Netlon greenhouse shading for your screen - it is easily damaged and the holes are just the right size for bees to poke their heads through and get stuck, blocking the air supply and suffocating the colony - and if it happens, it will be your best colony. Wire mesh screens are definitely worth the extra money.
20. Add an empty super so that the bees are not crowded.
21. Use secure straps, Spanset or ratchet style.
22. Strap hives as early as possible on the day of the move - this gives time for the propolis to glue the boxes together and stop slippage. N.B. The straps may loosen if put on any earlier. Do not go through the hives just before moving - the propolis will help to hold the frames and stop them swinging or sliding.
23. Check the hive for damage before moving it, bees will find the smallest hole or crack.

24. Take some beekeeping friends - many hands make light work!
25. Close the entrance completely with foam - if you use mesh then many bees will die trying to get out of the entrance.
26. Remove the roofs as soon as the entrance is closed so that the bees have ventilation.
27. Drop-side trailers are easiest to load.
28. If loading a number of hives, place the first hive beside the trailer to act as a platform for the other hives. These can then be brought to the trailer using a hive carrier, placed on the first hive and then manhandled on to the trailer. Use the same technique when unloading.
29. If using a trailer, ensure that the hives are well secured - hives banging against each other do nothing to improve the bees temper and the boxes may twist.

30. Give water if the weather is hot - half a cupful poured over each screen will enable the bees to cool the hive.
31. If stopping for rest breaks at night avoid parking under lights.
32. Drive carefully!

33. Place obstacles, e.g. loose grass or branches, in front of the entrance before removing the entrance closure. In this way the bees (allegedly!) stop and think about the new location instead of flying off and getting lost.
34. When releasing the bees, put the roof (or temporary cover - see 13 above) on and then pull out the entrance foam immediately - do not put roofs on and then leave the bees shut in for any length of time or they will overheat and possibly suffocate - this can happen very quickly with a large colony. Do not leave the roofs off after releasing the bees as many will alight on the screen.
35. Do not remove the screens at this point. For a local move they can be removed on your next visit, or for migratory moves they can be left in place for the return journey.
36. When all the hives have been opened, count the pieces of foam to ensure that all the bees have been released.

37. When you have finished, "bless" the site by sacrificing a bottle of mead, ale, or wine (this is best done by pouring it down your throat).

Peter Edwards
21 April 2001

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